I see, I see, I see the Black Sea!

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Varna, Varna, Bulgaria
Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Leaving Ivanovo early, in radiant sunshine, I navigated the country roads via several villages until finding the main road to Varna. The day was then a simple case of keeping the pedals in motion over the undulations, and was fairly uneventful, except for a short stop in a village near Loznica.

There I bought some food and once the young Bulgarian woman serving me overcame her shyness of speaking English, we had a very nice chat. After I left the store a man coming out made some gestures that indicated there were some amorous possibilities with this girl for me. Whether she had any part in this message is not sure at all, but she was only 20 years old and besides I already have my bicycle. After this I had a hand-waving chat with one of the gypsies who had rolled up in their horse and cart outside the shop whilst I had been inside. Then I followed the road towards Sumen, about where it abruptly became a motorway. I was trapped by barriers on all sides and sun set, leaving me only the option to continue until an exit. I found one 15 km or so further on, and found a reasonable camping spot in the dark (with the aid of the moon), which seems to be my way these days.

I slept well, and found some wild apple trees in the morning, which provided a healthy pre-breakfast snack.

Setting off, I took the old Ruse-Varna route that had been before the motorway, and was pleasantly surprised to find it actually shorter than the motorway route. One large hill 10 km or so before Varna, and the Black Sea came into view. I went to the centre of the city, rolled around looking for a net cafe and instead found the waterfront, and once I'd cycled several kms from the really upmarket bit - all cafes/bars with outdoor tables playing chillled house music, took a swim/wash just where the road climbs back up to the city. Suitably refreshed, I went on the hunt for a netcafe again, fairly fruitlessly, but eventually found one in a largeish market just as the afternoon was closing.

I got a bit of stuff done, then left with the sun, taking the motorway south over the harbour and chancing upon a brilliant future construction site or something - a hill that had been terraced with a sandy road leading to the top. I planted my tent up there, admiring the lights of Varna just across the harbour and wishing I had bought that beer I planned to!

Many barking dogs in the night as usual, but not enough to prevent my sleeping.


Pictures & Video

Varna Cathedral Varna Street Black Sea
Varna waterfront
The coast was lined with fancy bars and cafes
Communist monument
Communist monument
Eclipsed by the Bulgarian and EU flags in the foreground.
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