Bangkok

We landed in Bangkok late afternoon. No visa required. I had my bike reassembled a little before dusk. The humidity meant even this light task had me sweating buckets. Tourist map in hand  I set off for the city, taking the highway which swarmed with cars more modern and less eratically-driven than those to which I was accustomed. Flyovers and the overhead railway led me to the nerve centre after a good 90 minutes' riding. There in the high-rise district, I got stuck in traffic jams and was soon back to my old ways of cursing the automobiles.

I was aiming for the Khao San Road area popular with the backpacking set, and was told it was still 25 km further on. Just how big was this city? On into the darkness, still not sure what to make of the place. I overshot by a fair distance my target, but doubling back I came across a much quieter area, where a very friendly American helped me find sleeping quarters.

With a safe haven, I became comfortable and spent a week or so (my desire for comfort seems
to have increased as my journey has progressed. Hmm). I visited the impressive Wat Pho temple, the lively markets and China-town, as well as the circus that is Khao San.

I took a special interest in the Yellow Shirts (a.k.a. Peoples' Alliance for Democracy), who for a few months had been occupying an area of several blocks not far from my guest house. Entering their encampment, I surveyed their tent city and was impressed by their level of organisation. A speaker addressed a sparse crowd of listeners from one of several stages. Many of the occupiers - men, women and children simply rested in the shade. I watched a couple of men play an intriguing variant of Chess, and as I did a very friendly man stepped forward and explained a little about the movement, and we talked at length.

Later I was offered vegetarian food by one of the many onsite kitchens which fed the occupiers for free. I would return several times over the coming days.

A fellow bike tourist amongst the Yellows spotted me with bicycle, and took me to nearby Bok Bok Bike, a useful shop for cycle tourists, with lots of touring equipment and cycles, and a helpful owner who speaks excellent English.

I deliberated over which direction to head from Bangkok. On one hand this journey home has already taken longer than I expected, then there was the crazy heat and humidity and perhaps monsoons to consider; but on the other I couldn't say if I would visit this part of the world again.

While seeking a map of neighbouring countries I met a very friendly Thai couple who ran a small bookstore and had spent time in NZ. They updated me on NZ a bit, and advised me to ride the canal boats into the megamall district.On my way I passed through a huge rally of Red Shirts (United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship), no friends of the Yellows, occupying a massive intersection just a few kms from the Yellows. There was no trouble though in this gathering which more resembled a carnival, with sound systems, flag-waving and barbecues aplenty.

The canal boats were a great way to get around, and I found a map and began preparing myself psychologically to leave before sloth overcame me (it is never far behind, alas!).